Counterfeit Cronuts and a Kiwi Coolata.
Last month I posted an article about the lovely Cronuts, recently this week my buzz for this delicious pastry has returned. The word has spread ’round the world that Dunkin’ Donuts’ South Korean operation had successfully engineered its very own Cronut knockoff – the New York Pie Donut. Cronut copycats have been around practically since the day Dominique Ansel unveiled his now-famous original. But the Dunkin’ Donuts knockoff is different — it resonated because it’s from an enormous international conglomerate that could, feasibly, introduce Cronuts as New York Pie Donuts around the world within months — or even weeks. If that’s a chilling thought for Cronut purists, the first question surrounding these particular fast-food impostors should really be: Do they taste any good?
The restaurant trickle-down effect is by now well known: High-end chefs introduce ingredients and techniques that slowly move down to more and more casual restaurants until eventually fast-food chains co-opt phrases like “artisanal” bread or Angus burgers that are meant to add an air of authenticity and quality to their mass-market products.
The trickle-down can take years, but in this case it took Dunkin’ Donuts a frightening two and a half months to put together its own Cronut imitator — a move that has helped it capitalize on the residual hype surrounding the original.
I can say to all those dying to taste the delight of the Cronut is it’s something like this: Crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside, and airy thanks to the layered croissant texture. Like any imitation of a luxury good, this one pales in comparison to the original — there is no glaze, or icing, or pastry-crème filling, as there is at the original — but it was still undeniably the best thing I’ve had from a Dunkin’ Donuts. I even saved my extra third New York Pie Donut for breakfast the next day.